Sunday, September 9, 2007
Bracelet made with charms from the May Art charm exchange.
Charm artists from left to right- Rashell, Judy, Sheela, Mary J., Pegy, Sharie, Jan B., Tricia, Cathie, Connie, Ellen, Jan B.
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Denice O'Herons *Tiny* Faerie Book Charm. From the ICE Mini Book Charm swap.
Friday, April 27, 2007
Now THAT is ART! Charms by Connie Williams
The ICE group is about handmade ART charms. Take a look at the submission Connie in Hawaii has created for the May ICE (International Charms Exchange). She has designed 2 different sets of 21. For a total of 42 AWESOME ART charms!
There is STILL time to sign up for the swap due on May 31st. All submissions must be approved. It is a light juried swap. All design levels are welcome. All that we ask, is that your work is *neat*, safe, sturdy, non toxic, ARTISTIC, and innovative. It is appreciated when the artist also takes the time to create a fun presentation for their work! This swap is based on quality. Please only join, if you like taking your time, and care about what you make.
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
What have you made with YOUR return charms?
http://www.art-e-zine.co.uk/ch.html
Gillian has started a page on her website for us to share what we have made.
Right now, I am designing a demi parure using the charms that I have gotten in return from the charm swaps. I am not going to be done with it for another few weeks, but it is looking quite lovely!
Please share with us what you have been making so we can post it!
Gillian has started a page on her website for us to share what we have made.
Right now, I am designing a demi parure using the charms that I have gotten in return from the charm swaps. I am not going to be done with it for another few weeks, but it is looking quite lovely!
Please share with us what you have been making so we can post it!
Friday, February 23, 2007
Sparkle Charms by, Amber Dawn
~*Lori Anderson*~
Friday, February 16, 2007
By Amber Dawn
Thursday, February 15, 2007
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
ICE MEMBER HEATHER BLUHM
ICE MEMBER GINA LOUTHIAN- STANLEY
ICE MEMBER CLARISSA SHARP
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
ICE MEMBER TERESA STEBBINS
The following images show examples of the 2 sets of charms that Teresa sent in for the 42 for 40 swap. Each charm is nested in it's own fabric pouch and tucked inside of a small coin envelope which she hand stamped.
The hand made fabric drawstring pouches/"Yo-Yos" are made from vintage cloth, and tied with a simple string. Teresa designed the first charm, using antique sterling forks, which she cut, then added a tiny glass bead with wire at the top.
Next, Teresa made a set of dramatic glass fused charms. The black glass is topped with dichroic glass bits. The glass was fused with metal wire inside of it, forming the loop from which the jumpring is attached. These are also nested within a hand made Yo-Yo drawstring style pouch and tucked within a stamped coin envelope.
The hand made fabric drawstring pouches/"Yo-Yos" are made from vintage cloth, and tied with a simple string. Teresa designed the first charm, using antique sterling forks, which she cut, then added a tiny glass bead with wire at the top.
Next, Teresa made a set of dramatic glass fused charms. The black glass is topped with dichroic glass bits. The glass was fused with metal wire inside of it, forming the loop from which the jumpring is attached. These are also nested within a hand made Yo-Yo drawstring style pouch and tucked within a stamped coin envelope.
Saturday, January 13, 2007
Response to coating question-
Hi may I inquire what types of sealants you suggest would be good to use on the shrink plastic and metal for that matter that would make them waterproof? Thank You J.Myers
Sat Jan 13, 10:35:00 PM PST
RESPONSE- By, Amber Dawn
I suggest Diamond Glaze, for most metals other than brass (I have not yet tried it on copper)
Brass will turn the Diamond Glaze a greenish blue, and everything that it is adhering to the metal will become blue green as well.
For Brass, I use triple thick glaze from Krylon and Delta.
They both work well. Most spray glosses work well with metals.
Shrink plastic does not need a sealer if you use alcohol based inks and solvent inks on it. YOU MUST USE AMPLE VENTILATION!!!! When baking solvent and alcohol inks in the toaster oven!
Do NOT use your home food oven for this EVER!
If you are using INK jet shrink plastic sheets, you will need to seal the printed side of the plastic so that the image does not run as it will not be water proof once baked.
*I* reverse my images so that the printed side becomes the back side, and then my image can be seen through the smooth plastic. It is almost like looking at glass!
Depending on your printer/ink-
I use BRUSH ON glosses, and PAINT to seal it.
Use light coats and build up gradually. do not rub the brush too hard on the inked side.
It will distort it, causing the ink to run, or seperate from the sheet of plastic.
ONLY SEAL THE PIECE AFTER IT HAS BEEN BAKED!
If you Spray it with a gloss, use a little bit at a time to make sure it does not cause the ink to run.
Do it in layers, allowing each later to dry WELL.
ALWAYS TEST a piece before doing a whole batch!
Make a test scrap piece for each type of coating so that you can see which one you prefer, and which one hold up to your testing!
RESULTS WILL VARY!
Sat Jan 13, 10:35:00 PM PST
RESPONSE- By, Amber Dawn
I suggest Diamond Glaze, for most metals other than brass (I have not yet tried it on copper)
Brass will turn the Diamond Glaze a greenish blue, and everything that it is adhering to the metal will become blue green as well.
For Brass, I use triple thick glaze from Krylon and Delta.
They both work well. Most spray glosses work well with metals.
Shrink plastic does not need a sealer if you use alcohol based inks and solvent inks on it. YOU MUST USE AMPLE VENTILATION!!!! When baking solvent and alcohol inks in the toaster oven!
Do NOT use your home food oven for this EVER!
If you are using INK jet shrink plastic sheets, you will need to seal the printed side of the plastic so that the image does not run as it will not be water proof once baked.
*I* reverse my images so that the printed side becomes the back side, and then my image can be seen through the smooth plastic. It is almost like looking at glass!
Depending on your printer/ink-
I use BRUSH ON glosses, and PAINT to seal it.
Use light coats and build up gradually. do not rub the brush too hard on the inked side.
It will distort it, causing the ink to run, or seperate from the sheet of plastic.
ONLY SEAL THE PIECE AFTER IT HAS BEEN BAKED!
If you Spray it with a gloss, use a little bit at a time to make sure it does not cause the ink to run.
Do it in layers, allowing each later to dry WELL.
ALWAYS TEST a piece before doing a whole batch!
Make a test scrap piece for each type of coating so that you can see which one you prefer, and which one hold up to your testing!
RESULTS WILL VARY!
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